In general, the friendliness and helpfulness of the Burmese people. They are fabulous.
I loved the bridge at dawn (well worth getting up for) and the boat trip around Inle lake. The walk in the countryside was fun and the cycle trip also very enjoyable. I think I enjoyed everything we did.
Standing on the scales when I got home and discovering I had lost half a stone. Most people on our trip got food poisoning at some stage, ranging from 24 hours to a couple of days. I was happy to start 2013 a bit lighter.
Take immodium or similar. As mentioned previously, most of us got ill.
The stop over on the Malaysian airlines group flight is very long on the way back. I flew with Thai Airways via Bangkok, which was very similar in price, and only involved a two hour wait.
Don't take smart luggage. The internal airline managed to trash my Rimowa suitcase and I think it is very unlikely that I will be able to make a claim against them. I think they must have dropped it out of the plane onto the concrete. It's been round the world a couple of times with no damage.
Take flip flops or easily removable shoes - there are a lot of temple visits and you have remove your shoes on a frequent basis.
It's cold in the North, particularly evenings / night. I wish I'd taken pyjamas and warmer clothing for the evenings. A fleece and a hat would definitely have been useful.
The walk in Kalaw is do-able in trainers. You don't really need proper walking shoes unless you particularly want to take them.
It's fine to change as much money as you want at the airport. Rates are now similar across Burma. There are plenty of places to change money as you go along too. We did three flights, and you can change money at most of the airports.