A very enjoyable holiday visiting yet another country that is off the beaten track. The extent of the historical sites that have been uncovered is very surprising and the whole holiday was full of experiences.
- What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?
All the guides were good as their knowledge was extensive and each had a different personality which was allowed to shine. This added variety to the many sites I visited. For example, the guide at Ptolemais was part of the excavation team back in the 1960s so he was able to add a personal slant to the tour. Also, in Ptolemais I enjoyed walking through the underground cistern. The mosaics were good to see and the guide at the Tripoli museum and Sabratha showed us how the design quality of the mosaics deterioriated through the eras. The number of statues and mosaics in the museums is amazing and I was surprised to see some partially complete mosaics still on open air sites like Leptis Magna.
One night in the troglodyte lodge was comfortable and worth doing. The meze meal that night was also enjoyable. While others mentioned that they did not have enough water for showers, I was able to have a hot shower in the morning before we left so I think it was a question of timing. They provide clean, warm blankets/thin duvets and pillows but a sleeping bag may be worth bringing to keep out the draughts. Layers were key though. I'm glad I packed a pair of thermal leggings and coat, gloves and scarf.
A few of the sites were right on the coast so the sea made a beautiful backdrop in Apollonia and Leptis.
- What did you think of your group leader?
The group leader was good. He was keen to help and wanted us to enjoy our time in his country particularly to get a more real impression and see how much it had to offer.
We had a variety of guides, two drivers (one in the Tripoli area and one for Benghazi) as well as the security guy who stayed with us for most of the time we were in Libya. There were a number of security checks on the roads and his presence allowed us to get through these quickly.
We were happy for him to collect a contribution for tips which he then distributed to the guides, drivers, porters and some other people on our behalf and he returned the excess to us at the end of the holiday. We put together a separate tip at the end for him.
- Do you have any advice for potential travellers?
I went in Dec/Jan and some areas were hot enough to need a sunhat and sun lotion and others were cold enough to need thermal clothes, coat and gloves. I'm happy with what I packed. Casual clothes (there was no need for anything else) and layers were essential. I covered up as I didn't feel comfortable in short-sleeved T-shirts (clearly pointed out in the trip notes) and I'm glad I brought long trousers only. There weren't any problems but we attracted enough attention as it was - 17 Westerners wandering around Benghazi at night (lively).
It may be worthwhile finding the other people on the tour when you're trying to get through immigration as they wanted to deal with us at the same desk because we were all on the same visa. I took extra copies of the visa letter with me (same letters for all on the same tour) and I was able to give copies to a couple who hadn't been able to print them before they left. It probably wouldn't make any difference as long as you can see someone with the same letter and link up with them as the passport details are shown on the visa letter.
- Is there anything else you would like to add?
Litter is quite a problem and occasionally it got in the way of a good photo opportunity. Beautiful stone ruins and landscapes don't look quite so good with blue carrier bags caught on hedges and trees. Nevertheless it is a part of what Libya is today.
You'll probably need a lot of film or space on your memory card.
While there weren't many things to buy, if you wanted to bring back a souvenir or bring back a bargain from Libya, these included: pottery (we could leave these in the bus when we flew over to Benghazi and they were waiting for us when we arrived back in Tripoli), scarves and pashminas (probably not native to Libya but cheaper than the UK), a copy of the Green Book (published in Reading) - definitely worth reading.
I spent about £120 and could have spent more if I wanted souvenirs. Some meals cost more than described in the trip notes. We had a meal in the hotel in Benghazi (because it was easier after the internal flight) which cost about £15 which is more expensive than I had budgeted for. Other meals were cheaper. We didn't have a choice of venue for lunch on any days or a couple of evening meals and the menu in each place was limited but the food was fine. What out for cheese or egg sandwiches - cheese is the plastic kind and the egg is fried. The lunch was particularly cheap at Leptis Magna where there was opportunity to buy scarves, pottery, post cards and some other souvenirs.
A couple of our people joined in the Free Gaza demonstration and there were no problems but one woman was asked to delete a picture from her camera which included some of the police in riot gear. Also, don't take a picture of Colonel Gadaffi's residence which you will see as you drive to Tripoli airport on the way home.
Remember to take toilet paper out with you every day and carry the anti-bacterial handwash too. At Sabratha and Leptis Magna, you can't take bags or food into the site with you, although camera bags and water bottles are allowed.
Another great trip - where next?
from 14 reviews.
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