Mont Blanc Ascent

Reality Check

On the first evening there will be an introductory, informal meeting/briefing. We have planned this itinerary to include a three-day climbing / trekking section with four nights staying high in mountain huts.

Much of this route is spent on glaciers and there is plenty of time for training in snow and ice climbing (ice-axe and crampon skills, ropework etc.). We spend much of the time at around 3,000m which is essential for helping acclimatisation.

The climax of the week is the summit attempt which usually takes three days.

The training is undertaken by a professional High Mountain Guide, with a ratio of one guide to six clients. Additional guides will join us on days 6 & 7 for the attempt on Mont Blanc; here the ratio will be 1:2. In good weather the ascent is not particularly technical but it is extremely arduous.

To have a reasonable chance of success a high degree of fitness and stamina and some previous experience of altitude is highly recommended.

Please note that you cannot achieve the required level of fitness during the week - you must arrive fit.

Please note that although the itinerary presented here is the one we intend to follow there is a high chance that variations may be necessary. Many factors can affect climbing in high mountains. Individual member's abilities vary, as does their ability to assimilate the skills needed.

Adverse weather during the week may curtail training or even make the climb impossible, while previous weather conditions may have left the mountain in a difficult or dangerous condition. Any such factor may mean we have to re-arrange or curtail the programme. 3 days trekking and training at altitude, 3-day summit attempt; maximum altitude 4,810m., average 3,050m.

Grade E (Very tough).

Essential Information During the early part of the week the guides will assess your progress and skill levels. Even in good weather conditions you will not be allowed to start the ascent unless the guides feel you have a reasonable chance of success and this will depend on local conditions, fitness and having grasped the necessary skills. There can be no guarantee that guides will be available to organise and run an alternative climb for anyone not able to undertake the ascent of Mont Blanc. This will depend entirely on the size and make up of the group. The guide's main aim will be to ensure your safety and the maximum chances of success on the summit attempt for those fit and able enough to do it. Additional private guides may be available but the cost of this is not included in the price.

What are the chances of reaching the summit? Obviously you need to be confident of your fitness level in order to attempt this trip, but the main reason for failure is usually weather conditions. Thankfully the Alps enjoy long periods of stable weather in the summer, with regular thunderstorms in the afternoons that our guides are careful to avoid. However, due to its high altitude, any poor weather or strong winds on Mont Blanc can make a summit attempt too dangerous. In most cases this can be forecasted and we will attempt to offer an alternative climb in the region (often Gran Paradiso 4061m in neighbouring Italy). As a guide we would expect about 30% of our trips each summer to be affected by bad weather, making reaching the summit Mont Blanc impossible.

Even with a client to guide ratio of 2:1 a situation can develop where both clients will have to turn back if the guides consider that one of the clients should not continue.

Walking and ascent conditions During the training and the climb you will carry your own personal equipment, water and packed lunches, plus communal equipment (first aid kit, safety items etc.) will be distributed among the group members. On the training days and ascent, most of the time you will be walking on moraine, glaciers and snowfields. None of the ascents are extremely steep (approximate average would be around a maximum of 30 - 35°) but there is some exposure and you will encounter short steeper sections involving some rock scrambling, crevasses, bergschrunds and areas of snow instability and possible rock fall.