Turtle, Ecuador

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Your Words - We tell it like it is! Holiday Reviews by previous Exodus travellers  

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  • Reviewed November 2018
    T C

    Wildlife Adventure of a Lifetime

    I have been dreaming of seeing lemurs in the wild since I was young and this trip did not disappoint. I had never done a group tour before and was admittedly very hesitant to sign-up for one, but the itinerary allowed me to see most of what I wanted to, so I thought I'd give it a try. In the two weeks, we were able to see thirteen species of lemurs, which was thrilling and more than I had expected. The itinerary is thoughtfully laid out and even the long days travelling were made better by the many stops and stories from our group leader. I can't describe the feeling of first arriving to our cabins in Andasibe to the sounds of Indri calls in the forest. It was really out of this world. The diversity of landscapes and parks that we visited was excellent and I couldn't have planned it better myself. Having a local guide and engaging (mostly) with local tour operators and businesses was an important aspect of the trip for me as well. Overall, excellent adventure that I wish I could go back in time and do again.

    What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

    Definitely the first night we arrived in Andasibe to the call of Indris in the distance. That will be a memory that stays with me forever. The dry forests and desert landscapes were so incredible to see as well. The beach in Anakao at the end, spectacular! Getting to know our group leader as well and spending time with her on the trip was also very special, as well as the lovely people in our group. Perhaps not inspirational, more sobering, was getting to see first-hand the devastating effects of slash-and-burn agriculture. It was disheartening to witness this and other environmental destruction. The biodiversity in Madagascar is particularly precious and I fear it will be gone within the next couple decades. I'm more committed than ever in continuing to support local organizations to protect what still remains. Please do not purchase any souvenir animal products, wood products, gemstones or other trinkets that can't be sourced ethically. Foreigners continue to have a role in driving some (if not much) of the ruin you will witness.

    What did you think of your group leader?

    She was excellent. I can't say enough good things about her. She is intelligent, kind and had a great sense of humour. She took her job very seriously and had so much integrity, I didn't question for a moment that we were in great hands the whole trip. We had quite a large group, 16 people (which I was not aware of before arriving in Madagascar) and initially worried about how one person was going to be able to manage so many people, but she did so with great expertise and care. It was a tough job for her, but I always felt she had all of our best interests at heart and was flexible with the schedule, depending on how people were feeling and what their needs were. I was quite sad at the end to say goodbye!

    Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

    Take it as it comes, be flexible and don't arrive with too many expectations. I've done a lot of traveling and don't take this privilege for granted, but this was one of the top adventures I've ever had. The opportunity to see the most endangered mammals on the planet and the exquisite biodiversity this island has to offer, really can't be matched. Try and stay in the moment and really appreciate every minute of this adventure. If you're not comfortable being in an intensive group situation or going without creature comforts, this may not however be the trip for you. Expect and plan for digestive illness, it comes with the territory. I suffered quite a bad case of food poisoning, but the group leader managed it well and allowed for me to convalesce for a couple days before rejoining the tour. Educate yourselves before coming, about the island, peoples and appropriate conduct when visiting delicate ecosystems. Do not feed the animals, ever, we had some people who did this and it was incredibly upsetting.

    Is there anything else you would like to add?

    I would love to do this trip all over again :)
  • Reviewed November 2018
    Deborah Terry

    An Extraordinary Trip

    Madagascar is an extraordinary country facing numerous challenges. Its national parks are excellent and much of the scenery is spectacular. It is, however, very poor and facing many environmental challenges. This makes it all the more creditable that the hotels and food on this trip were both so good.

    What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

    Too many, but obviously the lemurs - we saw at least 15 different varieties, plus all the other wildlife, and the baobabs, plus the Highlands scenery. And the wonderful jacarandas in flower in Tana.

    What did you think of your group leader?

    Vula was one of the best leaders I've ever had on an Exodus trip. She has huge warmth and charm and was never off duty. One couple had to be airlifted to Jo'burg and many of the rest of us were ill, and she was brilliant at checking we were OK. She's passionate about showing her country to visitors and was determined that we'd get the best from the trip. She went the extra mile all day every day and can't be praised too much.

    Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

    This trip takes stamina but amply rewards it. It packs a huge amount in in a short time and the contrasts of experiences etc is excellent. Pack light (the Isola hotel does washing), be prepared for a 24-hour bug, and take plenty of Jungle Formula. Wifi was generally available, but mostly in reception rather than in the rooms. Contrary to some of the advice given we had no difficulty in finding ATMs in most of the towns we went through, so taking all cash seems a bit unnecessary. And anyway you won't spend much. I had 36 hours on my own in Tana at the start of the trip and while I was careful, I enjoyed going out, exploring and finding good lunch spots. As a 60-something female I felt perfectly safe.

    Is there anything else you would like to add?

    Deforestation is happening apace, so go soon. A unique destination.
  • Reviewed October 2018
    Nik Kowal

    One of the best trips ever!

    Madagascar is amazing with so much unique wildlife, plants and trees. A well organised trip, with good accommodation. Comfortable bus with lots of breaks on the long journeys. A mixture of leisurely time on the bus and in the towns, with some very strenuous treks in the reserves. Be prepared for heavy rain and blistering heat as you pass through the varied landscapes.

    What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

    The ancient baobabs in the spiny forest.

    What did you think of your group leader?

    Very organised and efficient, but some of her commentary got lost in translation.

    Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

    As above. Pack everything especially a head torch and walking poles.
  • Reviewed October 2018
    Laura Davey

    Life changing and unforgettable experience

    This was a truly life-changing trip. By that I mean, it was an experience of many extreme highs, such as seeing the unique and beautiful wildlife, coupled with being witness to some very difficult scenes, such as the slash and burn practice and huge areas of deforestation. The trip has left me wanting to learn more about this incredible country, its people and its wildlife. Would very much like to visit again and investigate further into the issues this country is clearly facing. This is a very special country and any visitor will be rewarded in many ways.

    What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

    The wildlife was what I booked the trip for and it did not disappoint. I had no idea we would see so many species of lemurs, reptiles, birds, plants and trees insects and frogs and at such close range, we really were so very lucky. I cannot underestimate just how special it felt to witness these incredible endemic species in their (rapidly disappearing) habitat. The call of the indri is a sound that I will never, ever forget. I feel inspired to learn more and find out if there is any way in which I can help contribute to the future of this country, as the people and the native plants and animals are facing some very severe challenges, such as a hugely increasing population, rapid loss of habitat moved over to farming, shaky political leadership, the introduction of non-native species of animals, trees and plants that cannot support native wildlife, and the slash and burn agricultural practice.

    What did you think of your group leader?

    Our leader, Vola was really lovely. She kept us safe, listened to feedback, was flexible with timings and programmes and informed us on any queries and questions we had as best she could. At times, she went above and beyond for her clients, giving massages to one guest who was suffering from back and shoulder pain, and taking another client to the dentist for emergency treatment. She was also fun to be around and made us laugh every day.

    Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

    Go with an open mind, and be prepared to see the mass destruction of the environment which you will definitely witness. Bear in mind, this is a very poor country and life here is hard. Saying that, the people were all very warm and welcoming to the small number of tourists that we saw. We never ever felt threatened or anything other than welcome. This is what makes the environment/humanity inbalance so very difficult to bear witness to, as the people are just as amazing as the flora and fauna that most visitors come to see. We found the physical rating of 1 to be misleading, I would say there are some moderate to strenuous hikes on this tour. Bring camera, binoculars, insect repellent and some detergent to wash clothes. Accommodation and food were excellent, much better than we expected.

    Is there anything else you would like to add?

    Go now, before it's too late! and do anything you can to help this amazing place. It has so much to offer from gorgeous deserted beaches, lovely people, wildlife, birds and trees you won't find anywhere else in the world - not even in zoos! It's got rainforest, culture, spiny forest, desert, incredible rock formations and valleys, natural swimming areas, mountains - everything you could ever want to see, all in one very unique country.
  • Reviewed October 2018
    Charlotte Grant

    Madagascar is great, unique & marvelous but one needs to be very fit to enjoy this amazing adventure

    The trip is rated as leisurely & I would rate it challenging. We had extremely long travel days in the vehicles on winding bumpy roads (5 hr, 6 hr, 11 hr, etc.) The trip notes advise some long days, but we weren’t expecting such challenges just traveling in the van; our muscles were all tensed up by the end of each drive. The hiking to get to the Lemurs requires a person to be very fit in order to scramble up steep banks, cross streams, climbing steps up & down, & bushwhacking for 4 hrs at a time. It would be helpful to put this information in the ‘Is this trip for you’ section

    What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

    The most inspirational moment was getting so close to the lemurs, we could practically touch them. We had the joy of watching a number of different groups for long periods times. I have tracked the mountain gorillas & traveled all over the world, but have never been in such a unique country. Ever day was filled with adventure & excitement & new destinations. It took a lot of effort & challenge to do this trip, but at the end of the day it was totally worth it. Go now before it gets to filled with Tourists.

    What did you think of your group leader?

    Our leader was Vola & she was excellent.

    Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

    Read the trip notes carefully & be in very good physical condition so you can enjoy every moment of this amazing country.

    Is there anything else you would like to add?

    Tipping can cause consternation as we all view tipping differently. I agree that we should tip for great service & we want to put money into the Madagascar economy plus we want to get money to the Madagascar working people. However I do not agree with the suggested leader tip.The suggested tipping for our leader was $5 U.S. per day; $5.00/day x 14 days = $70/person tip x 14 people is $980. $980 is a fortune in Madagascar. If our leader is paid well (as it says in the trip notes), I don’t believe the leader should receive an additional $980. I believe we should tip according to the country we are in. The leader should get a fair tip, but $980 is far too much. The trip kitty of $50 is fair, however the group should be told what amount of tip is being given as the tip is given; we should not have to wait until the trip ends to know the numbers. On all other trips we were told what tip was given as it was given to the person. Our leader did not share the tips given until the trip end. I am not confident the tip kitty went to the appropriate people.
  • Reviewed September 2018

    Go with an open mind

    Madagascar doesn't fail to delight. From the rain-forests to the spiny-forests and the beaches to the highlands there is something to interest everyone. Each of these unique environments harbour their own specialised family of wildlife and the smallest of insects is as fascinating as the the largest of lemurs. It truly is a special place.

    What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

    Getting up close and personal with the ring-tailed lemurs was completely unexpected. Their indifference to us was fantastic as we watched them go about their business. Night walks seeking out the mouse lemurs, chameleons and tree frogs was equally exciting. The amazing range of scenery was stunning, even the long dusty roads against a blue-sky backdrop were dramatic.

    What did you think of your group leader?

    Our group leader, Claudia, was brilliant. She was in control at all times, had an excellent sense of humour and always in a good mood despite a few challenges along the way - especially when our internal flight to get us home was cancelled and she had to make alternative arrangements at very short notice.

    Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

    Make sure you take a head-torch for the night and cave walks. Pack light if you can - there's only a 5kg carry-on limit on the internal flights and they do try to enforce it. If you're carrying an SLR take it out of your bag before they weight it - it'll save a lot of weight! Make sure you take some Imodium with you, half of our group needed it at some point and you'll be very grateful for it on the long drives! If you're into photography, take a tripod and get some pictures of the night-sky. The views of the milky way are spectacular - especially from the beach at Ifaty. The menus can become monotonous, if you just want a sandwich for lunch rather than a full meal then just ask for one. Also, stock up on snacks when you can.

    Is there anything else you would like to add?

    Parts of Madagascar are extremely poor and it's a bit of an eye-opener, but I was staggered at just how friendly and approachable everyone is. Go with an open mind and you will not be disappointed.
  • Reviewed September 2018
    Karen Butler

    Great trip to see Lemurs

    Loved the trip, great country, great people, great guide and great wildlife

    What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

    Lemur island, loved the fact that the country was supporting the re-introduction of "pet" lemurs back into the wild, great experience

    What did you think of your group leader?

    Mel was fantastic, I couldnt find fault if I tried !!!

    Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

    Many early starts and long road trips but well worth it.

    Is there anything else you would like to add?

    I was saddened to see the extent of plastic on the beaches, and the use of plastic straws everywhere
  • Reviewed July 2018
    Charmaine Cook

    An amazing island to discover

    This trip was amazing overview of Madagscar in a busy 2 week period. It was a fantastic combination of varying itinerary, the thrill of wildlife spotting, a superbly organised tour leader and a wonderful group of fellow travelers who made this trip to be so special.

    What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

    I have no idea why I was expecting rainforest everywhere as Madagascar is such a big country. So the dry forest at Kirindy was a joy to the senses - fresh leafy, earthy smells, crunch of the leaves underfoot, the warmth of the sun and the amazing lemurs, fossa (even if it was just at the lodge area), owls to be seen. My favourite bit was when the group of lemurs headed straight for us and had a gawp at us at very close range (touching distance) before heading higher into the trees. The fact that they actively approached humans was unique! So expect the difference of cool rainforest, tropical rainforest, dry forest, grasslands, mountains, desert/scrub and the amazing Tsingy. I loved the day hike around the Tsingy. As I have been climbing, caving and done many hikes, I was keen to do this day's walk. I was impressed that Exodus provided their own harnesses for the Via Ferrata - the harnesses provided to the other group were a bit old and tatty. The guides were very patient and helpful to members of the group who had issues with the climb or over the bridge. So everyone successfully completed the walk and had an amazing walk to remember. I was very thankful that I had my Camelpak to keep up the fluids readily as it was hot dry and sweaty work! Sunset at the baobabs was lovely - it is of course dependent on the clouds and dust in the atmosphere as how the sunset glows - but you feel like you are a world away from your worries at that time.

    What did you think of your group leader?

    From the start, Sol was looking after us well. Three of us had our bags left in Nairobi by Kenya Airways so he arranged at no cost to ourselves for a taxi to pick us up and take us back to the airport to hope that our bags were on the next flight. This was Sol - always organising things and smoothing things along. He was so informative about the ethnic groups, the local industies, politics, history, flora and fauna. Many a time whilst on the bus, his dulcet tones lulled me to sleep but not through lack of interest but as he has such a calming voice. I think this say it all - Sol rushes in to get us to leave the restaurant post haste as the President of Madagascar is coming along this road and it could cause delays. We get to the ferry site, we are told we'll have to wait as the President is coming. Sol puts his foot down and states that he has responsibility for his clients and they are more important to him than the president at this moment!! We got on the ferry thankfully or would have had a delay of a number of hours and missed the baobabs at sunset! He made sure that we were looked after and if we had a request, he would try his best to accommodate this - purchasing suntan lotion in small towns, sarong shopping, stopping for Gem workshops....... Sol is a lovely gentleman who is a credit to Madagascar and to Exodus allowing us to have an amazing trip. He had a hard task to keep our group in order as we were like a bunch of frogs jumping everywhere when allowed out! He was funny, serious and interested in us as we were in his life too.

    Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

    Madagascar is a huge country so distances to be covered make for long bus trips. A travel pillow is recommended. But this meant that we got to see the real lives of Madagascar - the activity on the villages as we traveled through, seeing the variety of houses in the different areas and the different farming activities. The landscape changes so much as well too -we might start at the seaside and be in rainforest by the end of the day. Don't expect a sleep in- we had a running joke by the end of the trip up with bags out and leaving at times that most holidays would never consider. But we needed to be on the road as our trip was pretty full on and a huge variety of animals and environments, that the last full day at the seaside was a free activities day was a godsend to have free time! As I previously mentioned the Tsingy and Isalo NP are hot so a Camel pak is better than just drinking out of a bottle - it stopped me from getting dehydrated as I drank 3 litres of water each walk. I had used previous reviewers information about changing money - Sol requests one the first day 200,000Ar (approx £40) for a kitty for drivers, guides etc. The airport has a number of exchange places that change euros, (post 2009 marked) USD and GBP. You have the opportunity to go back to the airport on Day 3 as well, or Day 9 we can change at a money changer in Morodava (with slightly poorer rates than at the airport) only euro or USD. I bought a few souvenirs, had an hours' massage, went snorkelling, tried to see the giant jumping rat and drank wine with my meals so I change £400. Did not change any money back but it was worth it!

    Is there anything else you would like to add?

    Another word of thanks to our brilliant driver Dama. He was smooth and safe whilst driving us on long trips. The bus was always immaculately clean, withe bin emptied numerous times throughout the day, the floors swept daily and windows washed daily so it was a pleasure to be in. I think that this was a well thought out itinerary that gave the traveler an excellent taste of the variety of wildlife, landscape, local people and ways of life in such a compact schedule. It is an adventure that changes rapidly and keeps you marveling at the beauty of Madagascar. It is Africa but without the large game and that difference means that you have to look closer but then you enjoy what you find even more!
  • Reviewed July 2018
    Jackie Freshfield

    An Incredible Adventure!

    Not so much a holiday, more an adventure of discovery! An island of contrasts, Madagascar is the gift that gives on giving – from the leaping lemurs in the rainforest to the giant baobabs of Morondava and the sandy beaches of Ifaty, there was always something new and exciting to experience and look forward to. As many have commented, the trip is dominated by long drives on poor roads, but the rewards at the end of each journey are exceptional and worth every mile. But don’t sleep through the drives as you’d miss the breathtaking ever-changing landscapes of Madagascar, from rainforest to stunning highlands, paddy fields, white sandy beaches, boulder-strewn deserts, spiny forests, rivers and of course the fascinating towns and villages of this incredible island – not forgetting the resourceful and welcoming Malagasy people. We were exceptionally lucky with our weather and wildlife spotting and the whole trip ran very smoothly due mainly to Sol, our superb guide, who made it all happen with charm and efficiency. If you want five-star accommodation and haute cuisine, this is not the trip for you. You’ll get a comfy bed and (generally) hot water at the end of each dusty day, a limited but well-cooked menu of zebu/chicken/fish for cheap lunches and dinners and the opportunity to experience the Malagasy culture at first hand, including the children who will wave from the side of the road, press you for ‘bon bons’ and delight in seeing themselves on the back of a camera. The unique wildlife and cultural melting pot make Madagascar an exceptional destination, and this varied and illuminating trip was better than I expected, such that it will take me some time to process the whole experience. I was also fortunate enough to be with lots of fun, like-minded people in the group who really added to my enjoyment of the trip.

    What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

    I’d wanted to visit Madagascar for some time to see the wildlife and to visit the giant baobab forests and these did not disappoint. As a keen photographer it was great to see the Avenue of Baobabs in both the afternoon sun and at sunset, and also to get lots of opportunities to see lemurs in the wild, although we all got neck-ache from looking up at the tops of trees for hours at a time! The night walk in Kirindy was particularly rewarding, and hearing the haunting call of the Indri in the morning in Andasibe was just superb. I can’t believe that I got to the top of the Tsingy as I have issues around heights, so that was an unexpected if terrifying highlight! I really loved the drive from Morondava to Bekopaka with the baobabs, villages and Heath-Robinson-style ferry crossings: all very wild!

    What did you think of your group leader?

    Sol was brilliant. The trip went like clockwork because Sol spent much of the trip checking ahead to make sure that everything was organised for us, including nabbing us a ferry for the Tsiribihina River crossing so we wouldn’t be held up by the Prime Minister who was about to visit! Sol kept us fully informed of all aspects of our itinerary and managed everything so that we didn’t waste time, particularly as regards ordering food, wearing the most appropriate clothes for each excursion, finding us good shopping spots and bush toilets (some better than others!). He was a fount of wisdom on all fronts – history, flora and fauna, culture, food, topography etc etc and we all soaked up his fascinating insights about the Malagasy culture. He was always cheerful and patient, despite various annoyances, and contributed hugely to the trip’s success.

    Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

    Read the trip notes and all the reviews thoroughly as they are full of tips and information. In practical terms . . . Camera Gear: photographers should take the best wide and long lenses you have: 100-400mm is ideal as some wildlife gets very close. Don’t bother with laptops/hard drives etc as the luggage limit for internal flights is limited. Take lots of memory cards and spare batteries. I took binoculars but didn’t use them and used my long lens instead. Take video clips when you can as these really convey the culture, wildlife and landscape better than stills – particularly the leaping lemurs which are so difficult to capture. Clothing: I should have taken more long-sleeved t-shirts as these are v useful in the rainforest under a waterproof. It gets cold in the highlands so a fleece is essential. No need for smart clothes – travel light with layers for the rainforest and a sarong for the beach (or buy a Malagasy one along the way). Take advantage of the laundry facilities on two-night stopovers – you get very dusty! Food: Take a few protein/crunchy bars for a snack if you need them, but the food is filling if not very varied. Be prepared for a limited menu particularly if you have a restricted diet. Don’t be afraid to go off-menu as the restaurants will do their best to accommodate you. I took tea-bags and Marmite and was glad I did as a breakfast boost will set you up for the day. Give your empty plastic water bottles to the kids who will recycle them by finding a use for them at home. Change all your money at the airport as doing so later is a pain. I changed £400 and that was just enough to cover everything, including a bit of souvenir shopping (if you see something you like, buy it then and there as there are few shopping opportunities), wine at dinner (NOT the local stuff) and a few beers along the way. Food is cheap! Take hand sanitizer and use it regularly to stay healthy. Get as fit as you can before the trip. The Tsingy is challenging and the terrain in some of the parks (Ranomafana) requires stamina. Hotels are varied, some more basic than others. Take a travel pillow for both bus and hotel bed! This is not a ‘relaxing’ holiday but it is really rewarding. Take an open mind and an easy-going attitude and soak it all up!

    Is there anything else you would like to add?

    Despite a 6-hour layover in Nairobi, my luggage did not make the connecting flight to Antananarivo, and the same happened to two others in our party as well as many more people on the flight. This is not uncommon apparently. I'd recommend having all camera gear in your hand luggage including battery chargers, plus overnight essentials. We returned to the airport at 3am the same night to meet the next flight and our bags were on it, thankfully. We'd have been in trouble otherwise: shopping for 'regular' kit in Madagascar is tricky as there are few Western shops, although it is also refreshing NOT to have the usual global brands, shops and advertising on every corner!
  • Reviewed October 2017
    Steve Gilbert

    Wow, Wonderful Place and Excellent Holiday

    I travelled there with some expectations regarding wildlife especially. These were exceeded. I was amused, impressed and very pleased at the number of wildlife sightings and especially the great opportunities I had for some brilliant wildlife photography.

    What was the most inspirational moment of your trip?

    There was no single moment I can identify. It was each occasion we went for a walk and encountered the Lemurs and Reptiles. Through the choice alone of the Lemus and Chameleons we got very close on more than one occasion. I will emphasise this was the animals choice not mine. Brown & Ring Tailed Lemurs can approach up to an arms length away. I didn't get bitten but I was wary. But it was exciting!

    What did you think of your group leader?

    Rija was one of the most enthusiastic and happy tour leaders I have had the pleasure of travelling with. Not only was she informative and organised she was also an expert wildlife spotter. She had an ability to spot something, when all we could see was undergrowth. I distinctly remember the rare 4 inch chameleon in the dark that she spotted from 10 paces when actually it was under a large leaf? I've never travelled with a leader equipped with xray infrared vision before, but I have now.

    Do you have any advice for potential travellers?

    The tour company was good and supplied bottled water every day. Don't throw away the bottles. They are a desired commodity to the people in the hills and they are very happy when you hand over the empties for them to put their local produce in, honey, oil or similar. You may like to hand over other stuff too but the children can get a bit boisterous so choose your moment carefully if its something for them. Dont forget the adults, they are poor too. In a couple of areas during September it got chilly in the evening, please remember a light fleece or jumper.

    Is there anything else you would like to add?

    I was surprised so many people used their mobile phone or tablet to take pictures. Be patient with them, as I noticed it took them much longer, and they stood so much closer to the subject than us with the SLR cameras.
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