Most Inspirational Moment
I loved Torres del Paine; we walked up to a viewpoint in the park and took some glorious shots of the massif with clouds and lakes in perfect conditions - I would have ideally liked another day here to simply sit and stare; the hike up to the base of the towers the next day was strenuous but taken in three parts so that all could cope. The final pull up the moraine was easier than I had expected and the rewards at the glacial lake well worth the effort. The famous Patagonian winds were in evidence all the way - take sunglasses for protection from the grit constantly blowing in your eyes! The hike to Fitzroy was equally awe-inspiring; our two guides Mauro and Johnny were a great team even producing flasks of tea at the lunch stop, and the circular route gave us some stunning and memorable views. On Christmas Day itself, we walked in the Tierra del Fuego National Park, saw the end of the world and then sailed down the Beagle Channel to meet the penguins - an unforgettable and epic day. To finish off in BA on Boxing Day with a tango show was the icing on the cake (!)
Thoughts on Group Leader
Dennis was constantly on the go, checking optional excursion availability and the next day's arrangements, I'm sure he was completely exhausted at the end of the trip. But he always had a smile and a joke for us, and lots of information about the areas we were travelling through. He also very kindly took 4 of us up an unnamed mountain behind El Calafate on his day off, for which we are eternally grateful as it added some views of the Uppsala glacier we would otherwise have missed as well as a gathering of 14 condors above some weathered sandstone. Beautiful!
Advice for Potential Travellers
Do it! Patagonia is an amazing place and you will remember the mountains until the day you die. We encountered no animosity (a la Jeremy Clarkson and friends) and enjoyed some truly inspirational scenery. One caveat; if you change your dollars for pesos in BA anywhere other than the banks (not a great rate) they will not change it back at the airport on departure - you need your receipt as evidence. Some of us got around this by touting our pesos to the bank queue and offering a favourable rate... probably not entirely legal.
Suggestions
I am so glad I went, travelling alone can be daunting but I met a great group of people and made some good friendships with like-minded people - and learnt a lot from the photographers and bird-watchers; thanks guys!