Uzbekistan Uncovered

Most Inspirational Moment

Samarkand's Registan Square, although being a familiar sight in brochures and travel guides is just as breath-taking in real life with a lovely light show in the evening.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Our tour leader was the wonderful Dilshod, a guide with many years of experience, incredible knowledge, attentive and organised. A proud Uzbek who can answer any question and is happy to share his stories and

Advice for Potential Travellers

While you're there use a mixture of US Dollars and Uzbek Som - souvenirs were all quoted in dollars. It's best to have clean crisp new dollars to exchange. A scarf to cover your head and long trousers when entering mosques is essential but shorts down to the knee are acceptable for most other days.

Most Inspirational Moment

Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand are the hi lights but there are so many other moments like our lunch with music and dancing near the fortress. The Registan in Samarkand is very impressive by the sheer size. I loved Bukhara and its atmosphere at night. The fortified town of Khiva is beautiful and the colour of the wall change at night. The train journey was also nice.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Dilshod was a walking guide book with outstanding knowledge of the history and culture of his country. He was very organised and as a result we did not waste any time. He told us many personal stories which added to our understanding of the difficult history of this country.

Advice for Potential Travellers

You have some long days on the bus but we could all have a seat by the window. Bring a scarf to cover your head in the mosques. Clothes covering shoulders and knees are required for religious buildings

Most Inspirational Moment

The interior of the Amur Timur mausoleum, a true wow moment…or arriving in Khiva to feel we were really on the Silk Road…no, the Registan or, or… in other words, the whole holiday

Thoughts on Group Leader

Takhir handled the usual “mixed” personalities with diplomacy and care. His telling of the stories behind the sites demonstrated his passion for history

Advice for Potential Travellers

Go

Thoughts on Group Leader

Tahir was kind, knowledgeable and consistently there for us whether it was endlessly changing money from one currency to another or patiently waiting for one or other of us, his recommendations of where to eat and what to eat, moving is between local eateries to internal flights and local trains and finally using his contacts to reclaim my coat after I left it on the last day in the train station hundreds of miles from Tashkent ~ a remarkable human being

Advice for Potential Travellers

Go!

Most Inspirational Moment

The long drive from Bukhara to Samarkand, stopping for drinks and toilet breaks in places where people have been doing exactly the same thing for thousands of years!

Thoughts on Group Leader

The group leader, Dilshod, was excellent. Incredibly knowledgeable and experienced, he balanced the needs of a diverse group very well.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Don't listen to anyone who tells you that Uzbekistan is unsafe or inaccessible. The recent tourism initiative has got rid of pretty much all red-tape, and there is virtually no street crime etc. Much less stressful than travelling in Egypt or the US! The vegetarian food is also much better than everyone leads you to believe.

Most Inspirational Moment

Strolling around the beautiful streets of Khiva at night - hardly anyone else around and very atmospheric.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Our tour leader Barbor was very proud of his country, and certainly knew his history. However, he was not the best at handling or organising a group, and I feel that our tour did suffer because of this - it felt like we had a lot of wasted opportunities. For example, instead of using the long bus journeys to explain what we would be doing that day, and the approximate timings and activities, he would wait to tell us everything on arrival, wasting valuable time. In addition, he was often vague about the sequence of sites and visits. This was particularly relevant in Samarkand when we lost the opportunity to visit the bazaar, which then turned out to be closed the next day when we had some free time. He would also sometimes "disappear" when we most needed him (e.g., on our first day in Tashkent when we were told we had 30 minutes for lunch but had no idea how to find it [especially given we had just arrived on a late night flight]). I feel that with another guide we could have had a richer experience. As it was, the tour was just ok.

Advice for Potential Travellers

It is easy to change money from dollars/pounds on the first day - we found that $200 each for the whole trip was just enough. It is almost impossible to use your credit card anywhere you visit apart from Samarkand, so you will need cash. Enjoy the bullet train from Samarkand to Khiva. I is a real treat and it was fun getting to 231 km/hr - beat that! Walking around at any time of day or night felt completely safe, and the tourist police (in Bukhara) are especially helpful even if it is just o ask directions. Buy any souvenirs in Bukhara or Khiva - Samarkand surprisingly does not have the same opportunities. Organise your own final group dinner in Tashkent or, perhaps better still, have it the day before in Samarkand. We ended up at the Gabrielle hotel in Tashkent were we were staying, the service is awful and the food expensive (perhaps why the tour leader chose not to stay and eat).

Most Inspirational Moment

Gur-i Amir at night in Samarkand

Thoughts on Group Leader

Encyclopaedic knowledge of the country and it's history.

Advice for Potential Travellers

As with any tour the local agency make changes to the itinerary. In this case the camel ride (Day 8) was just 10-15 minutes shortly after we arrived at the Yurt camp (Day 7). The trip notes highlight a 10 to 11 hour drive on bad roads (Day 4) but it doesn't advertise the 6 hour drive under similar conditions on Day 8. Unfortunately the vehicle used throughout did not have suitable air-con so in the 38-40C we all struggled a bit. Day 10 "we have a farewell dinner..." states the trip notes. If you want a farewell dinner you have to arrange it yourself as the local company doesn't do it. Having said that after the journey from Samarkand to Tashkent you arrive back at the hotel at 20:45 and several did not want to eat at that hour knowing we had an early start for the airport the next day.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Kudos must go to our guide, Dilshod. He was superb – even rearranging personal evening plans a few times to help the group out ordering dinner, etc and on the long bus trips was full of knowledge, history and jokes, keeping everyone entertained.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Nope - just book it and go! You won't regret it.

Most Inspirational Moment

The unexpected ‘wild swim’ in the lake and visiting the beautiful Shah-I-Zinda on the day families were celebrating Eid are both magical memories.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Absolutely fantastic! Dilshod’s knowledge of ancient and modern history, the architecture, crafts and culture in each city was phenomenal; and his willingness to share his own stories of recent history put this trip right up with the best.

Advice for Potential Travellers

If you have a problem with pillows try and take your own travel pillow!

Most Inspirational Moment

I absolutely loved swimming in Aidarkul Lake and the desert scenery on the way to and from the yurt. I also loved Samarkand and particularly Shah-i-Zinda.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Our group leader Shakh appeared to be inexperienced, he lacked friendliness at times and he showed a complete lack of interest in the fact that I was very badly ill twice. I had arrived a few days earlier (as a solo female traveller) and the day before I met the group I suffered sickness and diarhoea. On first meeting Shakh at the group meeting I mentioned this to him and I could not believe the almost complete lack of interest. In fact, I thought this so unusual, that I repeated myself in case he had not heard. We later went on our tour of Tashkent and I very nearly fainted (as I had not eaten due to the bug). Again Shakh was barely interested, pointed to a door where I could reach the outside and left me to it. Only when the other members of the group asked me if I was OK did Shakh very briefly check on me. A few days after that the bug returned and I was up all night with the worst illness I have ever encountered. The next day I again mentioned this to the guide and he was still uninterested (and no offers of pharmacy stops were made). Other problems with Shakh were:- not having sufficient water for our group in the first few days of the trip (at the desert fortresses we had run out of water completely in the heat and we also run out of water in the morning at Khiva). In fact, at the desert fortresses, I asked Shakh where the water was and he snapped back that he had not picked up the 10 litre bottle yet. As we had driven from the airport at Nukus there had been plenty of opportunity to pick up water. After that I no longer trusted Shakh to provide water and just bought my own to make sure I always had a supply. I have been on 5 other Exodus trips and on all those trips the guide has eaten with the group and the guides have been good/fantastic. This guide did not eat with us on the first night in Tashkent nor the first night in Samarkand and on around 4 or 5 other occasions. He was not always very friendly or smiley, which I think is the requirement of a guide. In fact one time we passed him in the street during our free time and he did not even smile or acknowledge us. The restaurant chosen for our final lunch in Samarkand was appalling in terms of service and again Shakh sat at a neighbouring table. Some of our food took an hour and a quarter or more to arrive and no complaints were made by him, to my knowledge. Then when the bill came the prices had changed markedly, for example the soup price had increased by over 50% and all the other prices had changed. This situation was awful and was handled very badly by the guide. The coach was not always asked to collect us, e.g from right outside the airport, so we were left with quite long distances to drag our cases. This was not really a problem for me as I had a rucksack (albeit a heavy one) but some of the other travellers were in their 70's and I am sure they would have benefited from being picked up. Shakh gave out his mobile number in case of emergency, with instructions NOT to ring him at night. Whilst I am sure most people would not ring the guide at night, emergencies can of course happen at night. On a more positive note Shakh was very knowledgeable about the history and geography of Uzbekistan and I very much enjoyed his commentaries, especially when he told us about his wedding. He also improved as the 11 days progressed (except for the final lunch incident). However I think being completely uninterested in the health of your travellers is completely unacceptable.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Sadly a number of people in our group were ill. Take plenty of rehydration salts. The bread is at least delicious, so you can survive on that! Do get out for a walk in the area around the yurt. I had a couple of little walks and it was so peaceful and the wildlife great.

Reply from Exodus

We would like to thank Ann for her review; we were pleased to read she enjoyed the itinerary and found it to have a good combination of nature and cities, as we feel this is something that makes Uzbekistan such a special country to visit.  We were, however, very sorry to read that she was disappointed with her tour leader, Shahrukh.  Having discussed this with a member of the Exodus team who has also travelled with Shahrukh, who is an experienced guide, we feel that he has potential to be a great tour leader for us, so we have asked the local team to carry out some additional training regarding what is expected by Exodus and our clients.  While we are sorry that this cannot alter Ann’s experience, we hope that this shows we have taken her review on board.  Jennifer Cox – Product Manager