Wild Algarve: Journalist Cindy Burgess Explores Portugal’s Untouched Coast
Laughter bounces off the stone walls as I dip a chunk of fresh bread into a bowl of golden oil. Our group of nine is seated around a wooden table at Lagar dos Pardieiros, a third-generation family-run olive oil mill in Monchique. We’re eager to taste after seeing the huge syenite millstones that grind the olives old-school before the oil is cold-pressed. The verdict? Liquid gold.
For the past two days, our Exodus guides Francisco and Rafael have led us through the Serra de Monchique mountains, sharing the spectacular views and traditions of their region, like the filhós we sampled outside a whitewashed house in the village of Umbria. The homemade deep-fried fritters topped with cinnamon sugar were a welcome energy boost during our eight-kilometre hike.
The mountain trails here are lined with olive and orange groves, pine trees and eucalyptus. Not to mention the fascinating cork oak – Portugal’s national tree and the source of about half of the world’s supply. Our guides showed how the cork itself comes from the tree’s thick outer bark, which is harvested every nine years. As I marvelled at the tree’s four-centimetre-long acorns, our group jokingly invented a slogan: “Save the cork industry, drink more wine!”
Then it was off to the Atlantic coast, and the rugged, wind-swept cliffs and golden beaches of the Algarve. Our daily walks along the sandy, undulating trails of the Rota Vicente brought new wonders, like huge white storks and the archaeological ruins of a 12th-century Islamic fishermen village. One section of trail had towering cliffs with striated, multi-coloured layers of sandstone, slate and limestone dating back millions of years. Francisco even pointed out a fossilised mangrove root, which I mistook for a rock.
Our exploration of coastal culture included a visit to Vicentino Vineyards in Brejão. What would a trip to Portugal be without wine? We learned the sand-clay soil and salt-laden ocean breezes combine to produce wines with a fresh, mineral taste. As a relative newcomer to the scene in 2014, Vicentino prides itself on experimentation. Our tasting featured a sauvignon blanc with notes of green bell pepper – so different from any wine I’ve ever tried.
Another long-standing regional tradition is producing medronho – a fruit brandy made from the berries of the Arbutus, or wild strawberry, tree. The Portuguese have been distilling it behind closed doors since the mid-1700s, but it’s now a growing industry with licensed distilleries. At Junior Jacques Distillery in Alentejo, we gathered next to a shiny copper still as the owner explained how he crafts his medronho. At about 45% percent alcohol, it’s strong – but surprisingly smooth and delicious. Certainly not the “hooch” of days gone by!
Our destination on the last day was Cabo de Sao Vicente, the most southwesterly point of mainland Europe. Waves roared to my right as we set out across deserted gorse- and juniper-strewn meadows, past red sandstone cliffs and a solitary fisherman perched on a rocky ledge. I felt wistful, knowing I’d soon have to say goodbye to my fellow travellers. We’d developed a special bond, forged by shared stories during picnic lunches overlooking the Atlantic and countless laughs over fresh seafood dinners.
That bond showed at the lighthouse marking the end of the trail, when Gordon pulled out a flask of scotch and several small cups for a communal toast – only to be topped by Gerry, who produced his mandolin and sang a hilarious handwritten song about our journey.
That night, we celebrated our newfound friendship and knowledge of Portugal with one last dinner and – needless to say – wine. Gotta save the cork industry, you know.
About the Adventure
There’s the Algarve you think you know – sun loungers, beach bars, and busy resorts – and then there’s the Algarve few travellers ever truly experience.
This is the wild side.
A place where clifftop trails trace the edge of the Atlantic, where cork forests and citrus groves scent the air, and where fishing villages and family-run producers offer a glimpse into a slower, more authentic way of life. It’s here, along the Rota Vicentina – one of Europe’s most spectacular long-distance hiking routes – that you’ll find some of the region’s last untouched coastal landscapes in Portugal.
Our Walking Portugal’s Wild Algarve adventure is designed to take you right to the heart of it. Over eight days, you’ll walk handpicked sections of this iconic trail, from the spa town of Monchique to the windswept cliffs of Cabo de São Vicente – the southwesternmost point of mainland Europe.
Along the way, the focus shifts from the well-known to the lesser seen – quiet trails, local producers, and places that feel a world away from the Algarve most people picture.
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Walking Portugal's Wild Algarve
Go beyond the Algarve and explore Portugal's pristine coastal trails