Most Inspirational Moment
Sitting watching penguin colonies for hours. They had chicks who were very high maintenance indeed, constantly pestering their parents for food. They are compelling birds and it is impossible not to fall in love with them.Wilhelmina Bay was easily the trip highlight for me. Owing to certain currents, vast quantities of krill are forced into quite a restricted area which creates whale foodie heaven and therefore paradise for mere mortals like me who love watching wildlife. Blue skies and calm seas with deftly carved icebergs, the scene punctuated by whale tails wherever I looked. The humpback whales were bubble net feeding inches from the zodiac - reminded me of a certain overused quote from Jaws.....It really was moving to be so close to these gentle leviathans. I can't understand how any country can justify their scandalous slaughter. Our zodiac guide couldn't contain his whoops of excitement, what a job!As an added treat we got to bivvy camp on a small snowy island in a sheltered cove. This involved digging a shallow hole (grave?) then sleeping in a bivvy bag. I was toastie warm and it was fun trying to sleep listening to nearby glaciers moaning and groaning all night.
Thoughts on Group Leader
The expedition I was part of was on the Akademik Sergey Vavlilov which is operated by One Ocean. The leader was Jonathan Chester. Putting it diplomatically, I have found other trip leaders to be more inspiring and charismatic and he didn't seem especially fussed with customer service.The stand out staff members for me were Derek who was a biologist and Zodiac driver. He was obviously genuinely interested in the wildlife we were interacting with and very sensitive to avoiding wildlife harassment at all costs. Katie the historian was knowledgeable, personable and made everything she talked about interesting with offbeat quirky facts.
Advice for Potential Travellers
Aerolineas Argentinas are a law unto themselves regarding scheduling changes, don't rely on them for time critical connections and make sure to arrive in Ushuaia the day before the trip. I'd recommend the Hotel Albatros which is across the road from the pick up point to get on the boat. Luggage can be collected by boat crew directly from here. Don't book flights prior to 12pm on disembarkation day in case of delays.Antarctica is obviously prone to extreme weather and you should come prepared but remember it is summer there and I've been colder at home in Scotland to be honest! A balaclava is handy for Zodiac excursions as the wind really nips your cheeks. High factor sunscreen is essential. Get seasickness meds before going as the ship has limited supply. I found promethazine the best ( unfortunately I have had occasion to try lots of others.........) . You can buy this over the counter marketed as Sominex - sold as a sleep aid but the same drug. The Vavilov is a lovely ship. It was quiet and very stable. The lounge/bar area is fantastic. It is on deck 6 and has panoramic views and a viewing deck out the back. For someone like me who gets seasick on a duck pond and especially when shut into windowless rooms, the lounge was a godsend. Bear this in mind when booking as the sister ship the Ioffe does not have this facility apparently.Take up the offer of wet weather gear, penguin crap is stinky and better on hire gear than your own!There were a sizeable party of travellers from China on this trip. I think partly owing to it being Chinese New Year and also owing to increasing interest in travel from the expanding middle class. Unfortunately, I found this group to be probably the worst behaved I have had the misfortune to encounter. Everyone on the ship has to go to a compulsory briefing on how to behave around the wildlife and on the Zodiacs which is provided in different languages if necessary. Despite this, I witnessed members of this group tramping directly through the middle of penguin colonies, disregarding the 5 metre rule, repeatedly failing to follow instructions to safely behave in a Zodiac and generally behaving in a rude, noisy and selfish manner. If I have the good fortune to repeat a trip such as this in the future I will be enquiring as to the make up of the passenger complement and would seek to avoid repeating having to put up with foul behaviour.