Cycle the Balkans

Most Inspirational Moment

The ride from Zabljak to Pluzine through the Durmitor National Park. The limestone scenery was spectacular and round each corner there was an amazing view. It was a tough uphill climb but worth it for the views.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Julien was very good with a great sense of humour He was well organised and knew the route well. He suggested nice restaurants for lunch and dinner and we all ate together. He was great at meal times sorting out the bill for each person/ couple. The support drivers were friendly and really helpful. He did set a fast pace and there were long stretches between regrouping.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Take layers to wear - it was cold in the mountains so gloves and a buff/ hood were needed. Take a head torch/ front bike lights for cycling through the tunnels which were unlit and the lights on the bikes didn’t really light your way. Do a few long climbs to get fit beforehand! Although the bikes were good your upright position on long uphills meant the saddles weren’t that comfortable! Gel saddle or extra padding! Take snacks for refuelling.

Suggestions

We cycled along some busy roads with quite a lot of traffic. The drivers didn’t always slow down and came very close resulting in a few near misses. We stopped on the mountain roads if we heard a coach or lorry coming along because they often cut you up.

Most Inspirational Moment

I was overwhelmed (to the point of tears) by the frescoes within the churches of the Patriarchate of Peć. The bazaar in Peja was a distinct disappointment, but the Patriarchate was a must-see for me. That it is the seat of the Serbian Orthodox Church - but situated in Kosovo and protected by the local police force - speaks volumes for regional history. Other than scenery and culture, I was keen to see wildflowers: and was not disappointed. The alpine meadows in Durmitor were awash with Muscari, orchids and gentians (amongst others) while the high passes were ablaze with crocuses wherever the snow had receded. Breath-taking. As was the constant waft of jasmine at low altitudes - particularly in and around Kotor.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Dhimo set a good pace - and made life extremely easy for the group, tallying food and drink expenses in his little green book for periodic payment (in whichever currency group members happened to have in greatest quantity). His penchant for classic British comedy (Fawlty Towers) also made for a gently humorous atmosphere throughout

Advice for Potential Travellers

The history of the Western Balkans is extremely complicated. Whilst many of the overnight stops aren't featured in the relevant lonely planet guide, it does include a reasonable overview of this history. You will need to be a confident cyclist. The route is on public roads and close passes were constant in all four countries (although there was no obvious malice on the part of drivers, they just weren't used to giving cyclists any room). Other than in the run-in to Kotor, traffic levels were moderate - but expect this to change over the next few years as visitor numbers increase. Travelling as a vegetarian (lacto-ovo) was fine - cheese features at every meal, and roasted veg are readily available (as are pasta and pizza options). Travelling as a vegan would be a challenge. The museums in Tirana are excellent, with unflinching presentations of the challenges presented by Albania's recent communist and post-communist history. Learning about the growth of the police state and widespread betrayals / persecution was eye-opening (and humbling). Take out a few Lek from an ATM in the city and see some of the sights on your first afternoon - mulliri coffee shops do a decent latte and pistachio bun if you need refreshment (a wide range of savoury options is available in the Tirana Castle area). The Adrion bookstore in Skanderbeg Square is well worth a look.

Suggestions

We tended to arrive at our hotels during early afternoons, leaving plenty of downtime. Since the cycle routes sometimes passed sights of cultural interest (such as the Sveti Jovan Bigorski monastery in North Macedonia) I would have preferred to spend time visiting these at the cost of an hour or two of pre-dinner idleness. Exodus could consider 'culture plus' tours with this feature, without much effort. In a similar vein, it would be great if the local operator could circulate basic maps and/or 'things to do' at overnight stops with no obvious points of interest (eg Berane) - or some basic ground rules (can we wander where we like in Durmitor National Park, or only on marked paths? Are there any trails near the accommodation that we might want to have a go at? etc). The hybrid bikes provided were great for the road conditions. We avoided long, unlit road tunnels and the provided bike lights were OK for alerting other traffic to our presence but pretty useless for illuminating the road ahead if pedalling at any speed. Local beer and wine were (almost) universally excellent. We had an extra night in Tirana at the end of the trip thanks to a BA IT failure. Credit to Dhimo for arranging accommodation and getting us into the city - but thereafter we had no support from either the local operator or Exodus. We were all experienced grown-ups and sorted ourselves out, but I expected better customer care and follow-up from Exodus.

Most Inspirational Moment

The ride through the Tara Canyon reaching the famous Tara Bridge. Endless fantastic photo opportunities.

Thoughts on Group Leader

What an excellent guide Dhimo was. Professional, helpful, knowledgeable, choosing good routes and pointing out places of interest. In depth knowledge of the region culture, language and currencies. Fantastic help choosing unique restaurants, ordering appropriate local tasty dishes and organising an easy method to pay all the individual bills. Complete empathy with all group members. Good sense of humour. A really good guide and companion who I would like to consider a new friend. Of note Viz, the driver also contributed significantly to the success of this tour.

Advice for Potential Travellers

You need to be quite fit but if you are, you will struggle to find better views on any tour. End of April / early May was a good time to visit. All countries were safe and culturally interesting. I have been on several Exodus cycling holidays and this is one of the best.

Suggestions

I strongly recommend this trip for adequately keen and fit cyclists.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Dimitry (Dimi) and his almost inexhaustible knowledge of the complex history of the region led the cycling & Elvis (Vici) with his careful, patient driving provided vehicular support. They worked fantastically well together, had every situation under control and were a pleasure to travel with. Together they showed us some of the highlights for the beautiful Balkans and made us feel extremely comfortable/welcome.

Suggestions

In summary I feel extremely lucky to have been on this trip. Some of magic was the chemistry between those in the party but a huge part of it was the part Dimi & Vici played making everything work so beautifully. They deserve my gratitude and hope you are lucky enough to take the tour with this partnership.

Most Inspirational Moment

The day spent going up and down Durmitor us the highlight for me. Unspoilt nature, quiet roads and great 360 degrees views.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Dimitri and the Support driver "VC" were great, providing a very detailed and clear briefing every morning. Always happy to answer our questions.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Pack several Layers! The temperatures on this trip vary a lot! We had cold mornings in the mountains but very hot days once we were cycling the bay of Kotor. I found myself starting a couple of days with long sleeves gloves and hat and finishing in short sleeve jersey, zip open by the end of the day.

Most Inspirational Moment

The descent into Kotor Bay takes a lot of beating. Montenegro mountains, Prizren and Peje in Kosova, and Lake Orhid were also great.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Leader and assistant both excellent and hard working! Interaction with clients was good.

Advice for Potential Travellers

It got quite cold in the mountains - pack a few warm layers. And water proofs. Consider bringing decent bike lights for the tunnels. A couple of the tunnels were very dark the provided lights were feeble. Infrastructure in these countries is good. We used Euros - In Albania and Macedonia you get change in local currently. Card payment common. ATMs common. Food was good - we may have been lucky that there was lots of seasonal produce. Some wonderful cheeses. Vegetarian options possibly a little repetitious. Vegans would find it a challenge.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Dimitri our guide was excellent, as was our support driver.

Advice for Potential Travellers

I personally would not recommend this trip if you are vegetarian (as I am) and certainly not if you are vegan. Vegetarian options were limited and vegan options generally non-existent. It is not mentioned within the trip notes, but I would recommend bringing a set of good quality bike lights as you cycle through a number of unlit tunnels and the lights provided were poor quality. I would also recommend bringing along a GPS cycle computer if you have one to allow you to better judge distances, road gradients etc. and a set of SPD pedals if you usually ride clipless. It is also worth noting that it can get very cold up in the mountains where it was two degree Celsius the morning we set off from Zabljak. I would therefore recommend packing a pair of leggings and warm hat and gloves.

Most Inspirational Moment

Cycling through the Dormitor mountains

Thoughts on Group Leader

Dimitri was a very capable and helpful leader

Advice for Potential Travellers

Enjoyed the trip but make sure you're fit , there's lots of climbing

Suggestions

I didnt enjoy cycling in the tunnels which had no lights. the lights provided on the bikes weren't adequate

Most Inspirational Moment

The climb through Durmitor National Park in Montenegro with its wild and rugged scenery, exposed to the elements. The very welcome Turkish coffee brewed on a portable gas stove at the top, before the stunning descent through switch backs and short tunnels. At out destination in Rudinice, we were greeted with a dramatic sunset with a double rainbow across the mountains, a delicious roast lamb dinner and comfortable stay in a log cabin. Standing up high on the castle walls at Prizren, Kosovo, hearing the call to prayer from across the city from the many mosques below with the Pashtrik mountains in the distance. The opportunity for quiet reflection on the beautiful climb through no man's land between North Macedonia and Kosovo. The thunder and lightning on the last part of our descent into Berane which thanks to our guide we avoided the worst of.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Joshua and drivers Toni and Juli made a great team - very welcoming, funny and approachable. Joshua gave detailed descriptions of the route ahead such as rough roads, descents, metal grids, tunnels, city traffic and any inclement weather. He gave advice on how to negotiate these safely and as a result there were no serious mishaps. We regrouped regularly after climbs and descents. Coffee stops and meals were efficient with a group tab system. We were given some free evenings to explore the area we were staying in and make our own arrangements for dinner which was nice to have a bit of freedom to explore/take a break from the group. This safety conscious but relaxed and friendly approach worked well and it felt like a holiday!

Advice for Potential Travellers

Take layers for cycling: the mountains were cool in Montenegro and we did encounter some rain. For the descent from Durmitor I was regretting not having my long finger gloves! Rehydration tablets I did have a slightly upset stomach on a couple of occasions, which was fixed with loperamide! Take Euros with you to pay for meals/settle the tab at the end of the holiday.

Suggestions

I would recommend this trip, it was fantastic.

Most Inspirational Moment

Cycling up a remote valley, seeing traditional farming and hearing the calls for prayer. Cycling through beautiful no-mans land between borders. The first view of The Bay of Kotor.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Lovely guy.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Take lots of layers for hot or cold weather. We had a lot of rain and it got cold. Definitely take light overshoes, they take no room.

Suggestions

I didn't get much hill practice in, living in Essex but your climbing ability does improve every day. I loved how different this holiday was, it was very different to the Indochina I did.