A Week in Jordan

Most Inspirational Moment

A small group of us did the walk up to the high place of sacrifice and back down via wadi Farasah at Petra. One of my favourite ever walks!

Thoughts on Group Leader

Just fabulous! Ibrahim is kind, organised, knowledgeable, interesting, funny and has a deep well of patience for dealing with mixed groups of people with different needs. He is everything you could want in a group leader and more.

Advice for Potential Travellers

I read that you have to wear modest clothing but everywhere we went was very liberal. Best to be respectful but no need to buy anything special. Wear good walking shoes/trainers. Expect to walk a lot at Petra! Remember to take a bag you can put overnight stuff in for the desert (you can’t take your luggage). If you are a softie for dogs and cats, keep some pet treats handy. I bought a local data sim but barely used it - there’s wifi in all the accommodation and in the bus. Everywhere else there was no 4G anyway. Embrace every opportunity and have an amazing time!

Suggestions

Just do it!

Most Inspirational Moment

Petra - walking along the Siq towards the Treasury, climbing to the High Place.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Not a lot!. Mikhel failed to deliver on many levels. He was barely audible because he spoke so softly yet so fast. He was not very resourceful or creative when it came to food, especially for vegetarians. He though it was acceptable for me to eat a bowl of boiled veg and pita bread whilst the meat eaters tucked into a nice plate of hot food! Mikhel was complacent when it came to recounting the history, politics etc of Jordan. To him, mentioning "there's a field of solar panels to the left" would interest us and yet he didn't extend the story behind why they were there, apart from the obvious. This is just one example of how inspirational he was. I met a couple on the flight home who did the same trip but with Explore and I learnt more from them about Jordan because their tour lead oozed knowledge, unlike Mikhel.

Advice for Potential Travellers

If you're thinking of going to Jordan then look at Explore's trip, and they don't charge for transfers if you pay for your own flight! You might want to take a travel kettle.

Suggestions

I highly recommend you look at Explore's trip before making a decision.

Most Inspirational Moment

The sight of the Treasury at Petra.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Mikhled was well organised, knowledgeable and joined in with the good humour within the group.

Advice for Potential Travellers

The early morning arrival on day 1, can be mitigated by arriving a day earlier

Most Inspirational Moment

Although we had visited Petra the previous day with our guide, on our second day in Petra we decided to get up early so we could enter the site for its 6.00am opening. There are inevitably lots of visitors at Petra, but there are far less people at this time of day and the temperature is much cooler. Sipping freshly brewed Arabic coffee (delicious!) at 7.00am in front of the Treasury before the crowds had gathered was so worth it! The light was magical. But there were other special moments too: exploring the unexpectedly large Jerash site with its huge array of columns; sitting on the sand exploring the night sky in Wadi Rum; sharing jokes with each other whilst riding our camels across the desert as well as floating in the Dead Sea.

Thoughts on Group Leader

The leader for most of our trip was Amer. He was friendly, helpful, and very experienced. Amer was hugely knowledgeable about all aspects of the region’s history, culture, and religion, and answered all the group’s questions in a comprehensive and often humorous way. He often took extra time to expand his answers so that we fully understood both the past and present political and religious complexities concerned: As a proud Jordanian his perspective on the topic of Palestine reflected his views. More generally, Amer took time to explain the plans/timings for each day. With such a busy schedule I think we all appreciated his organisational skills. On the coach he ensured there were plenty of regular breaks on the longer drives. He also handled check-in procedures at each hotel so generally all we needed to do was to collect our room key from him.

Advice for Potential Travellers

If you are worried about the visa / arrival process, for us this went very smoothly as the Exodus rep at the airport was extremely good. Be aware that on this itinerary, you will arrive at your first hotel in Amman around 2am after the visa procedure and transport from airport etc. You are then asked to be available for departure (after breakfast) at 8am the next day for a day trip to Jerash. Some may consider adding an extra night at the beginning to address this. The Day 3 itinerary which is the drive to Petra was very long but did contain several stops along the way. Departure was around 8am but arrival in Petra was not until around 7:30 so prepare for a long day. Try to get up for 6am when the site opens on your free day in Petra. There are far less people at this time of day, the temperature is much cooler and the light is magical. Bring beach shoes for Aqaba and the Dead Sea. We forgot ours, and whilst the pebbles and grit weren’t a problem the sand was burningly hot! If you can, bring a LARGE water bottle. This saves the chore of filling up every stop. Payment by card is simple in many locations, even to the craftspeople/store holders in the Siq at Petra! Even so, bring plenty of Jordanian Dinars for food/drink/snacks etc. Also, we had to hand over quite a bit of cash to our guide to support the tips strategy (see below) so make sure you bring enough to cover this aspect. We had a small pair of binoculars confiscated by security when we checked in at our hotel at the Dead Sea Resort. They were returned just before we left for the airport. Although the hotel is in Jordan, its proximity to Israel seems to make the staff nervous of such items, so beware. We recommend you either do not bring binoculars at all, or are prepared to do without them for this part of your stay. All the hotels were OK, but nothing special. This wasn’t really a ‘hotel holiday’. From our perspective, if the accommodation is clean with reliable plumbing and has reasonably comfortably beds that’s fine, and that was our experience. Hotel breakfast buffets were variable in range of options but there was something available for everyone. As a coeliac I was able to cope although I did bring enough gluten free rolls to last the full week. Eating out (or at the hotel) was simple and the places we visited offered many venues, but the food at each was pretty much the same everywhere: cold mezze followed by kebabs or lamb/chicken stews with vegetables.

Suggestions

We feel both the Little Petra and Bethany-on-the-Jordan “options” were in truth essential aspects of the trip and should be included within its basic itinerary and price. Indeed, had anyone chosen not to take these options (all our group selected them), it was unclear what their alternatives would have been, other than remaining at the hotel or on the bus for several hours. We were surprised and a bit uneasy about the tip strategy. On our first day on the bus, we were all asked to contribute JD23 and US$30 each to a ‘tip kitty’. Whilst we understand Jordan is a ‘tipping culture’, we have never been asked to ‘tip in advance’ on any previous trip. By our reckoning if all 20 travellers contributed as suggested, this would have created a kitty of nearly JD900. Our guide told us that these tips would be given to service providers en-route (hotels were mentioned…) but apart from our (excellent) driver who we know received JD200 at the end of the trip we have no idea how the rest of the large pool of tip money was actually distributed and generally, we didn’t notice anything particularly worthy of a large tip from any of the places or hotels we visited. We feel Exodus need to rethink this whole area, or at least provide a fuller explanation and detailed breakdown of where the money goes in the trip notes. Better still, Exodus could consider including all tips except those for the driver and guide in the base holiday price. For the driver and guide, we believe passing “driver” and “guide” envelopes round the bus at the end of the tour (perhaps with “suggested donations” for each) is a better solution. This would allow individuals to donate anonymously what they felt was appropriate for them, without the pressure of being asked to pay a specific amount before the services have even been supplied.

Most Inspirational Moment

First glimpse of The Treasury at Petra, having walked through the Siq. The expert knowledge of Mikhled explaining the various carvings added greatly to the experience. The sheer expanse and quiet of the desert at Wadi Rum was awesome.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Mikhled was an excellent leader who was hugely knowledgeable and was able to communicate effectively without overloading us with facts and figures. He was happy to elabarte on any topic when requested. He was very organised, had a good sense of humour, and never got flustered. It was unfortunate that the late arrival on day 1 and early start on day 2 meant that our group didn't get a proper chance to introduce ourselves. With a large group of 20 this was a slight disadvantage which took a couple of days to resolve.

Advice for Potential Travellers

Take Jordanian Dinars with you (rather than US Dollars). The Trip Notes need revison on this matter. The Petra Visitor Centre had a 3 D model of the Petra site which was very useful in giving an understanding of the physical relationship of the various sites and monuments. The Visitor Centre and Petra Museum should be mentioned in the Trip Notes. Travel light. There are plenty of opportunities to wash and dry clothes.

Suggestions

We had two meals out with Jordanian families. The first was excellent, with the dignified host and family talking about Jordanian family life and mingling with the group. We opted out of "Petra By Night" to have a "Mansaf" meal at the second family. While the food was enjoyable, the evening was not a success as the host "Jeff" dominated the evening and conversation in a manner which caused us to be distinctly uncomfortable. In retrospect we would much rather have exerienced "Petra By Night" and eaten Mansaf at a local restaurant. While we understand the need to use trusted hosts, the fact that "Jeff" was hosting our group of 16, as well as the Exodus Cycling group and an American couple (all in different rooms), did not seem to meet the objective of helping (a number of) local families. The Edom hotel in Wadi Musa was excellenty positioned but our room was not clean and had a view of a rubble and rubbish pile out of the window (photos available!). At Wadi Rum, the Trip Notes advised that we would "learn about Bedouin culure and music through interacting with the family who run the camp". This did not happen.

Most Inspirational Moment

The 2 days in Petra

Thoughts on Group Leader

Fantastic - very knowledgeable

Advice for Potential Travellers

Be prepared for quite a lot of easy climbing

Suggestions

Highly recommended

Most Inspirational Moment

Walking through the canyon, catching my first glimpse of the Treasury in Petra brought tears to my eyes. I grew up reading about it in National Geographic, watching documentaries, and finally I was there. In person. It is overwhelming to say the ver least.

Thoughts on Group Leader

Mikhled was the perfect balance of presence & availability. He advised approximate costs of items, how to negotiate, sometimes did it for us. He included everyone in the group decisions, and he often provided snacks & treats when necessity stops were made. Mikhled shared his knowledge & love of his country and culture with us. Any minor issues were promptly addressed and resolved as best as possible. He has such a great sense of humor and truly the patience of a saint. Absolutely ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Advice for Potential Travellers

Go! It is a vastly gorgeous country. Every day was a new surprise. The experience blew away any expectations I had. We are here for less than a blink of an eye. See as much of this world as you can, WHILE you can.

Suggestions

Exodus, please include details in the trip notes about “dry hotels”, camping in Wadi Rum, and shockingly abrasive wind. As I’m sure you are aware many western folks like a drink, especially while vacationing. I feel safe in assuming most people who travel are aware of cultural differences, but some of us make assumptions about availability in tourist areas. I’ve never heard of a “dry hotel” and wasn’t entirely sure what that meant. It would be beneficial to have that information beforehand. Secondly, the hotel in Petra. At first glance we were all excited only to have carpets that weren’t clean, beds that were more like bounce houses, shower doors falling off the hinges, and one morning without hot water. I travel for work and leisure so have a certain expectation when it comes to lodging. The Edom Hotel did not meet them. The physical location was great and I believe that if the hotel were to correct these housekeeping problems it would be infinitely better. Secondly, the “camping” in Wadi Rum. Having been on a previous tour that included desert “camping” I had an idea of what to expect. Most in our group had not and were quite frankly dreading it. There are various styles of camping, from the most base level of “roughing it” to “glamping” with all the amenities & modern day comforts. More detailed information would have prevented many from unnecessary worry. The “glamping” in Wadi Rum was absolutely lovely. The people, location, food, and accommodations were warm and inviting. I am NOT an outdoorsy camper. That was my kind of camping! Lastly, the wind at Mount Nebo and Karak were shocking to say the least. No one has any control over Mother Nature. However, informing travelers of the climate and extraordinary winds would be helpful in preparing and packing. There were a few times I was concerned about losing my footing due to the 40mph+ winds. Again, no one has any control over that it is simply providing unsuspecting travelers of the possibility of it. I believe Exodus can do better with providing detailed information to travelers and addressing housekeeping concerns with hotels to ensure happier guests. All that being said, it was an amazing experience and I will sing the praises of Jordan to any and all willing to listen. My life has been enriched with the journey through this remarkable country.

Most Inspirational Moment

`entering the area by the Treasury having walked along the Siq. the place just kept giving and two days there are essential in order to take it all in and walk the walk everywhere. excellent

Thoughts on Group Leader

Mikheld is a very gentle soul who in true jordanian style wants all of the group to have a great experience.

Advice for Potential Travellers

None. Go with an open mind and a mixture of travel wear just as you would for any other trip - the Wadi Rum experience was fantastic but take an extra little bag with your swim stuff for the next day and leave it on the coach overnight..then your packing is much easier.

Suggestions

Not really. I will be back!

Most Inspirational Moment

For me there were two: Discovering the vast area of Petra beyond the Treasury was sensational. We drank tea at the Place of High Sacrifice and took a lesser-trodden route back – the scenery was simply stunning! Wadi Rum was amazing – an overnight in a tent in the desert is an experience not to be missed – the evening meal was delicious!

Thoughts on Group Leader

Our guide Mikhled, was a real ambassador for his homeland. Demonstrating he loved his job, he shared his passion for Jordan with the group. He was professional, caring and at all times determined that our holiday would be the best he could organise. His choice of restaurants and lunches was a feast for the palette and gave a great introduction into Jordanian cuisine. The cooking class he organised allowed us to make some of the dishes ourselves (the recipes were sent to the group to allow us to try at home). Mikhled was at all times courteous, smiling and able to keep the group amused with his dry sense of humor. When difficulties arose, he was able to support and help to find a solution. Thank you Mikhled for making our week such a special experience.

Advice for Potential Travellers

The trip gives a lot but also expects a lot from each group member. It is vital that each person takes responsibility for themselves, their belongings and their timekeeping. It is important not to overestimate your fitness or underestimate the physical demands necessary in such a trip. There are many vista rewards for walking and climbing the age old routes but good footwear is an absolute must. The temperature range is quite diverse (from 8-20 degrees during our week) depending on which location is being visited. Make sure you have layers, warm clothes and a hat as well as swimming gear. For the Red and Dead sea we took water shoes which protected our feet from coral and sharp rocks. A lunch pack is available in Petra – this is a great option as you can choose your stop based on where you are rather than where food is available for purchase. Take a small backpack as you will need to carry the lunch pack. Not all ATM’s work with all UK bank passes so it’s a good idea to get a few Jordanian Dinars before leaving or at the airport to make sure you have money as necessary. There are lots of opportunities for shopping and cash is sometimes preferable. We used about 350 dinars per person during the week.

Suggestions

This is a once in a lifetime trip – make sure you take advantage of everything on offer and approach each day with an open mind (especially the additional activities cooking class, meal with a family, Little Petra, camel ride and Turkish baths). You will be rewarded with a glorious week in the absolute gem that is Jordan!

Most Inspirational Moment

Our guide Amer's passion for his country had my attention and was inspiring the entire week

Thoughts on Group Leader

There are not enough good things to say about Amer. He is an asset to his country of Jordan and to Exodus

Advice for Potential Travellers

Be prepared for the trip of a lifetime. This is a magical place to visit.