CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING: PERTISAU

Trip name:CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING: PERTISAUTrip code:CXPDate of holiday: 31 January 2009.Rating: 5*I am only posting this record on the forum because Exodus failed to publish my email with the Pertisau trip notes and other holidaymakers responses to this holidayThis holiday was absolutely outstanding: one of the three or four bestin my life. In terms of cross-country skiing holidays, it ranks forsheer enjoyment with the first cross-country skiing holiday I had twentyyears ago, spent with Exodus's predecessor Waymark.Like that holiday, snow conditions were not as good as experienced onother vacations in between. As sometimes happens shared difficultiesleads to greater challenge, improvisation, hilarity, and dare I say itgroup spirit, as my fellow holiday makers and I slithered and stopped,crashed, fell over got up again, and got better against worseningconditions as the week went on, the sun shone, and the track went frompolished ice in the mornings to slush punctuated by dung, soil from molehills, tree branches and fir cones in the afternoon. I have to say thatteam spirit always seems to improve faster in grade 1 beginners, forwhom the novelty of this unnatural form of personal transport known aslanglaufing has not worn off. The excitement of mastering a bike forthe first time is similar. Grade 2's can be slightly blasé about it.Above grade 2, possibly that focus on distance travelled, and personalbests, would make me feel uncomfortable amongst other participants, as Iused to when I ran two half marathons for fun and health.Aside from the skiing in a variety of attractive locations, under sunnyskies, sometimes served by a good local public bus service, with achance to talk to my fellow passengers, many of them also skiers, in amixture of my pidgin German, and their better English, I should like toanalyse what made this holiday so good.1. My fellow holidaymakers. I went on holiday on my own. My wifemastered the basics of skiing on oversized toothpicks, with oldfashioned 'slide off and twist your ankle bindings' about 18 years ago. Technically she was much better than me: better balance, bettercontrol, more physically able to twist her legs into the snow ploughposition. However she hates cold. She hates falling. She isn't tookeen on exercise, or aeroplanes or airports either. So I travelledalone. This makes you even keener to make friends on holiday, and morewilling to talk and to listen to anybody you should meet. I am delighted to say that my fellow holidaymakers were not only friendly, butinteresting to talk to as well. Many were well qualified in a varietyof professions, and brought a variety of experience outside work to thetable as well. They were articulate, relaxed, self-confident, andamusing, just the sort of people you would want to take as friends onholiday.2. Leadership. After day one. I demoted myself to Grade 1, after askingthe two holiday leaders. I had met, Albert, the leader of Grade 1 about13 years previously. Throughout the week, I became more and moreimpressed by his quiet, patient and thoughtful leadership style. He was a good observer of our strengths and failings, and gave individuals,the encouragement and modifications to their technique which helpedthem. Albert was also very good at selecting the ground to match ourabilities, increasing the challenge as the week went on. At the pace heset, there was time for the slower members to catch up, and time foreveryone to enjoy the picturesque local scenery, and observe the localwildlife. Albert was easy to approach, friendly and a pleasure to bewith. I am pleased to say that both our leaders joined us at table, andorganised and participated in the other entertainments of the week.3. Skis. After floundering on the slightest uphill rise with no grip onday one, I changed the skis to a much shorter and wider pair, which weremore controllable, and slower downhill and on the flat. The shop werevery helpful, but a little sceptical that these skis would be sufficientto support my weight for gliding. I did not glide perfectly, but thiswas more than offset by the better kick down grip I got from thestanding leg. Going uphill was easier than ever before, even than when Iwas twenty years younger and twenty kilos lighter.4. Hotel. Here I wish to contradict the views expressed by SusanScott-Green about the Kristall Hotel, Pertisau. Like her I had a singleroom. It was simply the finest single room I have ever stayed inanywhere. It was room 109, an easy number to remember (just like theMesserschmidt World War II fighter, but I do try not to think of the warin German speaking countries.) The room had a huge amount of hangingspace, a double bed, separate toilet, and shower with wash basin room,and large lounge area, with substantial desk and armchairs, leading to abalcony with table and chairs and views across a snow covered field tothe church and the downhill slopes beyond. The sound insulation wasgood. The heating was not controllable, and up too high, but this wasuseful for drying clothes, and could be wastefully offset by opening thebalcony doors. Mostly as a single traveller, I have been stuck in cubbyholes down in the basement next to the boiler, or roof space soslopingly narrow, it should be reserved solely for bats. Not here. Thehotel provided such luxuries as free dressing gowns, and slippers (agift), and separate towels for sitting on and for drying off in theluxurious spa suite, with swimming pool so large you could swim morethan the usual two strokes that you get out of the length of the normal"yes we have a swimming pool", tick in the box swimming pool that is alltoo common in three star hotels. This was a proper four star hotelswimming pool. My only criticism is that the jacuzzi feature in themiddle in it was on too often for swimming , a bit like the Bermudatriangle whose turbulent gas bubble release produces such disturbingeffects on buoyancy, known otherwise as a sinking feeling. There weretwo saunas, two steam rooms, one with smells and flashing leds, whichwere pretty, and new age music which wasn't. This is Austria. You havegreat musical assets called Mozart, Haydn and Strauss. Use them!Like much of the German speaking world, the saunas were mixed and bothsexes were usually completely naked. I did not find it as hard (toadjust) as when I was twenty years younger, but this may come as asurprise to the shy, sheltered and modest.The food was plentiful, and outstandingly good. Unlike all othercountry-skiing holidays bar one, I did not have to go to bed feelinghungry, or wake up in the night feeling so hungry that I could chew thesoap, the furniture, and yesterday's underwear. On such holidays,waitresses began to appear not pretty, but edible.Service at the Kristall was not only efficient, but always friendly.Smiles were answered with like. I do try to be nice to hotel staff.They have to be friendly and efficient, and put their own worries behindthem, often have difficult people and situations to deal with. Ithought the staff at the Crystal were outstanding - reception, barstaff, cooks, cleaners, all of them.On occasion the serving staff dressed in local costume. One of thewaitresses looked absolutely stunning in her dirndl. One evening, localentertainers came and played a variety of traditional Austrian, and morewidely known popular tunes such as Lili Marlene, on folk instruments,for us to sing along.The hotel was scrupulously clean.I should also mention that some of the Exodus guests had been coming forseveral years to the Kristall, so that they were evidently of adifferent opinion from Ms Scott-Green as well.5. EntertainmentSome of us went to an evening of folksy entertainment at the local crosscountry ski centre, with electric guitar, accordion and drums playingpopular Austrian tunes, beer and dancing. Forget subtlety,sophistication, diffidence, reserve. Pitch yourself in. Dance, claphands, link arms and sway at the table just like the locals, it wasenjoyable. As the German philosopher of Dionysian exuberance, Nietzschewould say: "Up for it. Go for it" I haven't had as much fun at dancesince I was at school. Above all join in with the singing of "ein Prositzu Gemutlichkeit", a toast to warmth, friendship and congeniality. Itwas great.We also went and played ninepins at a local hotel. A nice evening offriendly competition.The last day I spent on the pleasant sun terrace of the hotel sharingtwo bottles of wine with a most convivial and witty couple of my fellowholidaymakers. It was a delight, lang loafing par excellence.6. Flights: On time coming back. Journey shorter than expected.Unexpected meal served at no charge both ways. Meal was unexpectedlyedible as well. Leg room was inadequate on the way back. It was not aproblem going out because I had a seat next to the emergency exit.Please publish any or all of my report on your website. I wish tocounter the unfavourable impressions of the hotel by Susan Scott-Green,I want this holiday to run next year and I want to be on it.Yours faithfullyJohn Moore