Most Inspirational Moment
I cannot possibly describe everything I enjoyed but here are samples: rising at early light to see storm petrels dancing on glassy smooth water before the morning breeze comes up; flamingoes in dayglo red, as vivid as the vermilion flycatchers; small flightless cormorants with bright turquoise eyes that stood preening themselves as we passed by or surfaced near the panga as they returned from fishing expeditions; male frigate birds sailing through the air with red throat sacs inflated to impress their girlfriends; gorgeous green dragonflies in the highlands of Santa Cruz and elegant coffee and cream dragonflies near the beach at Floreana; a great blue heron, taller than I am, that I was cautiously approaching when it decided to walk towards me, I might be exaggerating about its height but I don't think so; marvellous sea caves with nesting noddies; evening on the north side of Santa Cruz where hunting sealions swam rings round hunting sharks and opportunist pelicans perched on the boat waiting to pounce on the dozens of fish that shot across the surface in fright; hunting packs of blue footed boobies that form merry-go-rounds of dozens, if not hundreds of birds when one of them spots a shoal and whistles for its friends so that they can take turns at diving and circling round to have another go; Espanola where, rather surreally, albatrosses with pretty faces sat on their nests gently touching each other's bills and necks whilst in nearby bushes the mocking birds were attacking each other ferociously.
Thoughts on Group Leader
Darwin Alvarez is probably the best group leader I have met, very knowledgeable, helpful and considerate and well able to adapt the daily trips to circumstances and the particular preferences of individual members of the group.
Advice for Potential Travellers
Do read the trip Notes! They do tell you what to prepare for in the islands. It helps to be moderately fit but the walking is lightweight compared to that on Exodus walking trips, no more than 2.5km on any walk and the greatest height gain was about 140m. The steeper paths had flights of steps and often handrails. To get the most from the trip you should be able to snorkel (often opportunities twice a day). Plenty of shallow water beach visits and life vests are provided if you are not a strong swimmer. James and Suzy have given good advice on keeping baggage light. I wish I had taken earplugs. The engine and generators are noisy and you move between islands at night!