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A lovely break from a harsh UK spring. We were lucky to have fabulous weather and enjoy sunshine on all our walks.
The 2nd walk in to Amalfi via the gorge was lovely. The little detour behind the gates, to which the tour leader held the key, to visit the waterfall was magical.
Very good.
None.
Nothing that Exodus can do to change this, but I was fairly shocked at how unkempt the Italian contryside is. There is lots of fly tipping and generally most verges are "adorned" by litter.
This was to be my third trip to the Himalayas, the last being the Annapurna Circuit in 2006 (before road building started on the circuit). I was looking for something different this time, a remote camping based trek off the beaten track and away from the relatively crowded paths and overstretched teahouses of Annapurna and Everest Base Camp. Manalsu more than met my expectations.
There were too many to recall! Those that spring to mind include:The nerve wreking bus trip over mountainous tracks to Arughat BazarWalking between rice paddies on beautiful sunny and warm mornings on the lower reaches of the Budni Gandaki Nadi river valley; the exotic sights and smells of the local farming communitiesReaching Jagat, the first truely Tibetan village we were to meet on a cold windswept evening after walking with goat herds on a narrow track in a steep sided river gorgeEarly on a sunny morning, the first glimpse of the snow covered Manaslu peak breaking above the clouds from the campsite above the monastory in LhogaonBreakfast in the sunshine after a bitterly cold night in Samdo seeing the footprints of our tents in the snow as they were being packed away and watching the yak herds being driven out to the early spring pastures.Trekking up to Larke Phedi in the bright sunshine between snow covered peaks towering above as far as the eye could see; enroute sighting the rare and protected "blue sheep" high above our path Reaching the prayer flags at Larke La after trekking for six hours up snow and ice covered scree and then facing the steep descent in a full-on blizzard; arriving in Bimtang to a hot bowl of noodle soup six hours later.Sheltering from the blizzard and huddled around a juniper fire with Pasang and his sherpas after dinner in one of the few small stone-built tea houses in Bimtang; awaking to a snow covered campsite on the following sundrenched morning.Walking down through the snow covered conifer forests towards Karche on a sunny morning under the ever present Manaslu towering above with occasional views of early flowering rhododendrums.Washing under village hose pipes or the occasional waterfall when the opportunity arose; the waterfall at Tal was very memorable although very cold!The amazing sights of the destructive force of nature in the two main river valleys; the Budni Gandaki in the east and the Marsyangdi in the west; very deep, steep sided and scoured gorges, recent landslips hundreds of meters high and wide and the massive amounts of natural debris including whole trees and huge rocks stranded in the river beds. The constant noise of rushing water.Cooking was inspirational and every meal was greatly anticipated and appreciated: lids were whipped off aluminium pots from which emerged an amazing choice of well prepared and tasty food including porridge, omlettes, home-made bread, various hot and spicy soups, yak stew and curried yak, tuna, fried spam, lentels, greens, cauliflower (the best we had ever tasted), dumplings, pancakes, curried potatotes and chips, cinnamon cake...........the list goes on.The evening at the last campsite in Bhulbhule where we all realised how lucky we were to have been in the company of Pasang and his team of sherpas, cooks and porters for such a challenging and magic sixteen days. The mutual support and enjoyment of my four trekking companions where very fortunately we all appreciated and undertook the trek in the same spirit.
Pasang, a very experienced trekker and mountaineer was a truely gifted leader. Apparantly Manaslu, unlike Annapurna to the west is known for having unstable and unpredictable weather. On the days leading up to crossing the pass, the weather started to deteriorate as the wind picked up and although we had many sunny mornings, the cloud brought snow flurries at dusk. Pasang correctly assessed the weather and the ability of our small trekking group and decided to dispense with the normal rest day at Samdo and keep heading for the pass in order not to be caught by the impending bad weather. The crossing was very arduous taking twelve hours instead of the normal eight or nine caused chielfly by recently fallen snow and ice underfoot. It was only when we got to Bimtang that we realised how well Pasang had read the weather conditions, assessed our team and lead us safely with a minimum of fuss over the pass. In 10 years of crossing Larke La, these were the worst conditions he had encountered; the pass was virtually closed to all except for a couple of mountaineering groups for the best part of a week afterwards. He constantly and quietly encouraged our group and his own team through long and tough days with great humour, anecdotes and authority always ensuring we were comfortable, not over-stretched, well rested and most importantly well fed. I think we were very lucky to have him as our guide.
When it comes to what equipment you should take, you should follow the Exodus advice closely. For example two of our group did not have the recommended trekking pole arrangements and I think they may suffered for it.I did not bring a spare memory card or battery for my camera thinking I would be OK; I wasn't so as a result I was unable to take photos on the last four days of the trek. I now understand that extreme cold drains older batteries down quite quickly. Exodus arranges occasional evening meetings in London where a famous wildlife photographer gives great advice and tips for amateurs like myself. Sadly I didn't go (not knowing about it) but two of my fellow trekkers went and greatly benefitted.If you are travelling on our own, you might consider going "solo", i.e. having your own tent. Luckily I was the odd man out and had a tent to myself. Being somewhat awkward in confined spaces and valuing my own privacy, I don't think I could have managed sharing a tent with anybody else for sixteen days. Follow the Exodus advice for getting fit and preparing for this challenging trek if you want to get the maximum pleasure from it. I am in my sixties and knew before going that I was older than my four travelling companions and didn't want to let anybody down so I made an extra effort to get fit (it helps when you are retired!) and it paid off.If you are in any way interested, it might be wortwhile before you travel reading up on the various cultural groups you will encounter enroute and the flora, fauna and geology of the Himalayas; it certainly adds to the enjoyment of the trek. Also bring a small pair of binoculars (fortunately we had a pair between us).
This was a truely rewarding experience for our small group of five trekkers. Having stayed in teahouese on my two previous occasions in Nepal, camping for me is now the preferred way to go if at all possible. We had a great Exodus team including our leader, two sherpas, a cook and four kitchen helpers and seven porters. These guys made our trip memorable in way that a teahouse trip could not. You soon get into the daily rhythm and routine of a camping trek, what is expected of you and what you expect of the others, both your co-trekkers and the Exodus team. The success of a trek depends on this mutality which I had not fully appreciated at the outset; Pasang's great skill was to ensure this mutality.
I had an excellent time. It was what I had hoped and more.
I loved looking at peoples houses, seeing real Vietnamese life.
Trong was excellent. Very humourous and knowledgeable.
Do take a rain jacket if travelling in March. We had rain in every place we went. Our tour guide did buy us all ponchos, twice! You can get your washing done about half way through, which is really handy.
Before I went on the trip, I was very keen to go for a motorbike ride through Ho Chi Minh City. Once I got there, no way! Manic isn't the word! It's scarey enough crossing the road on foot.I went with my friend who had been to Vietnam three years ago. She could not believe how many more tourists there were now. If you want to see real Vietnamese life, I would go sooner rather than later. There is already a KFC in Ho Chi Minh City. It's a trip full of variety. You see an awful lot. I would thoroughly recommend it. I would like to go back to Vietnam.
Good weather, fab, rugged scenery and walking. Hotels reasonable, guide (Joe) highly knowledgable on flora and fauna; over-reliance on public transport which can be crowded or involve a lengthy trek at the end to reach a bus-stop.
Walking the levadas - water causeways with maintenance tracks cut into sheer rock faces with 50m+ drops to one side - leaves you leaning a bit one way for the rest of the day!
Knew a lot about the country, walking routes, the wildlife and conservation and was happy to share it with us. Good organiser, and always tried to tie up loose ends. Tended to be very busy - often on the phone and didn't eat with us as often as we are used to.
Consider EasyJet and others for flights as TAP aren't the cheapest by some margin. We were very lucky to have good weather all week - go prepared for anything.
Be prepared for some variation to the trip notes; you are unlikely to do what it says. Although Exodus claim to keep these up to date, a fire in the high mountains has put one walk out of bounds since last August and flood damage has changed another walk route for the past 2 years but the trip notes haven't changed. We discussed this with the guide, and his feeling was that as weather considerations mean they have regularly to change the routes, they aren't too worried about the Trip notes being accurate. Perhpas it's just a local thing!
Very interesting holiday with a good mix of city sites and fabulous walks.
Arriving at the beautiful lake on the fourth walk. Amazing views and a wonderful sense of tranquility.
Yahya was wonderful in every way.
Check out the weather in advance of your departure and bring extra warm layers.
Thanks for a fabulous holiday.
Vietnam is a great country. Visit soon as it is undergoing considerable change. This trip has quite a lot of bus transfers – tedious but necessary to make the programme work. Not sure the effort of getting to Halong Bay was worth it. Very busy and much rubbish floating in the water.
Completing the cycling climbs. The descents were quite awesome as well. Had the best meal for a long time in Hoi An. Truly wonderful.
The whole team were wonderful.
Had a wonderful time walking the Levadas under the guidance of an informative and caring guide. I would rerecommend this trip to anybody considering visiting the island.
Looking along the Levadas to enjoy the fantastic views and being hardly able to believe the views from the edge of the mountain side Levadas that had been cut into them, a real wow from the thought of how they must have been constructed.
Our group leader, Joe, was one of the most considerate, informative and heplful guides I've met. He managed to organise wonderful days out despite the weather and terrain walking prohibitions put in place by the Madeira authorities after the floods and fires that had ravaged parts of the island. To have someone who can remain cool, calm and collected through whatever climate, terrain and people can throw at him is indeed a pleasure. I can only hope to meet up with him again sometime.
None realy, except that as a person who has suffered and can suffer from mild vertigo I found the walks within my capabilities and indeed noticed that others were doing likewise, so whilst the warning is valid vertigo sufferers should not be instantly put off going, but perhaps check out the walks more carefully.
This is a really good chance to have great walking followed by an extended stay to relax and enjoy the island. I'm only sad that I didn't think of doing that before I went and then became envious of those who waved us goodbye as they stayed on.
I knew the landscape would be beautiful. I knew the trip would be well organised. I knew for sure that the food and drink would be divine.
What I didn’t reckon on was the stunning mountain scenery, our inspirational guide, Sara Bull, the warmth of the Italian people and most of all the frienship and camaraderie of the group itself.
On a scintillating sunshiney spring day climbing up through dappled beech forests and patches of virgin snow to the precipice and a vista of thickly wooded Tuscan hillsides - and on to the sea beyond. Truly heaven.
One word - inspirational.
Come on this trip and enjoy. It will exceed your expectations.
(I would have liked a map before I came !)
Having read the trip notes I was expecting an exhilarating walking holiday with views along the coast and from mountain ridges. Due to poor weather, path closures and forest fires what I got was endless levada walking, backtracking along paths and walking with no objective or destination. Only one day followed the published itinerary.
Had some great sea food. Beautiful island and friendly people.
Knowledgeable about the island and local weather conditions. Good leader.
I would not call this holiday moderate walking. More easy/ sight seeing.
Please update your trip notes.
Breathtaking scenery, great cycling, good food and excellent company!
The cycling on Mjlet was lovely. So peaceful, beautiful and relaxing.
Ana was a great tour leader. Enthusiastic, knowledgeable and well-organised. She also made sure we ate in great local restaurants and quickly sorted out issues when they occured (such as the one restaurant that ran out of red wine!!)
Don't be lulled into a false sense of security by the short distances - there are regular hills with some particularly long climbs - nothing too difficult but do do some training before you go and you'll enjoy it more. The fabulous descents make up for all the climbing. We went in April it was glorious sunshine in the daytime but got quite chilly at night - take something warm!
It's a very beautiful country - enjoy it!
